Climbing Résumé

Some personal highlights (not an exhaustive list of all time routes climbed) according to style, beauty, difficulty and visited areas. Thanks to all friends with whom I team up to share such challenges and landscapes. For photography and article accounts of some of the next mentioned activities, please sort the Journal entries by climbing.

Sport Climbing Onsights Up to 8a (e.g.):

Coliseum, 8a, Rodellar

Minimal Tecno, 8a, Siurana

Compadres de Puta Madre, 8a/+, Paklenica

Hellas Rodeo, 8a, Kalymnos

Sport Climbing Redpointed Up to 8b+ (e.g.):

Superskunk, 8b+, Meio Mango

Kale Borroka, 8b+, Siurana

Falconetti, 8b+, Monsant

Botanics, 8b/b+, Rodellar

Single Pitch Traditional Climbing Onsights Up to 7c (e.g.):

Sadomachiste Direct, 7c, Annot

Natural High, E7 6b, Craig a Barns, Dunkeld

Single Pitch Traditional Climbing Redpointed Up to 8a (e.g.):

Fissura Daberlay, 8a, Serra da Estrela

DeBosch Total, 8a (E8 7a), Casal Pianos

140 Battiti al Secondo, E7 6b/c, Val di Mello

Multipitch & Alpine Climbing Onsights Up to 7c (e.g.):

Jour de Colère, 400m 7a (ED), Aiguille de Sialouze (3576m), Massif des Ecrins (with Roger Gili, 10-VII-2022)

Nómadas en Tierra de Nadie, 400m 7a+, Torre Cerredo (2650m), Picos de Europa. In-a-day activity (4200m unevenness overall) from Caín via Dobresengos (with Samuel Ortega, 25-VI-2021)

Serenity Crack + Sons of Yesterday, 360m 5.10d, Royal Arches, Yosemite (with João Saraiva, 18-IX-2019)

Trade Winds, 360m 5.11d, Incredible Hulk (3444m), Hoover Wilderness (with Samuel Ortega, 14-IX-2019)

On the Lamb, 182m 5.9, The lamb Dome + Oz and Gram Traverse, 180m 5.10d, Drug Dome, Tuolumne Meadows (with Samuel Ortega, 10-IX-2019)

Airy Interlude, 128m 5.10a, The Witch, The Needles (with Eduardo de Deus, 3-IX-2019)

Al Centro y a Dentro, 450m 5.11c, Anfiteatro, Cochamó (with Paco Rey, 21-I-2017)

L'Echo des Alpages, 400m 7a+ (ED+ ), Gran Capucin (3848m), Chamonix (with Samuel Ortega, 14-VIII-2016)

Les Intouchables, 250m 7b (ABO), Trident du Tacul (3693m), Chamonix (with Samuel Ortega, 13-VIII-2016)

État de Choc, 300m 7b (P7 left variant, ED+), Petit Clocher du Portalet (2823m), Chamonix (with Samuel Ortega/Silvestre Barrientos, 8-VIII-2016)

American Direct (with north face to Gran Dru summit), 1200m 6c+ (ED+), Aiguille du Dru (3754m), Chamonix (with Samuel Ortega/Silvestre Barrientos, 2,3-VIII-2016)

El Reino de León, 600m 6c, Peña Santa de Castilla, Picos de Europa (with Samuel Ortega, 19-VII-2016)

Voie Despiau-Battaia, 355m 7a, Ordesa, (with Samuel Ortega, 23-VI-2016)

Sin Casa, ni Perro, ni Jardin, 260m 7a+, Peña Montañesa (with Samuel Ortega, 28-VI-2016)

Tout Va Mal, 500m 7a+ (ED+), Aiguille du Roc (3150m) Chamonix (with Samuel Ortega, 14-VIII-2013)

Retour à la Montagne, 200m 7b (ED+), Tour Verte (2760m), Chamonix (with Samuel Ortega, 15-VIII-2013)

La Barra del Bar, 400m 7b (ED), Montrebei (with Pieterjan de Roo, 8-V-2013)

Sendero Luminoso, 600m 7a+, Varasova (with Thanassis Sotiropoulos, 25-XI-2012)

Brid Klina, 350m 7c, Anica Kuk, Paklenica (with Nastja Davidova, X-2012)

Alix Punk du Verdon, 210m 7b+, Verdon (with Veronique Homans/Philippe David, VI-2012)

Lavorare con Lentezza, 250m 7b, Val di Mello (with Andrea Migliano, V-2012)

Opus Nigrum, 300 7b+, Mallo Pisón, Riglos (with Hugo Silva, III-2012)

Sànchez-Martinez, 285m 7a, Serrat de les Onze (Paret de Diables), Montserrat (with Romana Braga/Hugo Silva, V-2009)

Hedonista, 600m 6c+, Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes), Picos de Europa (with Francisco Ataíde, VIII-2002)

Multipitch & Alpine Climbing Redpointed Up to 8a (e.g.):

Gizon Berri Bat Naiz (Soy un hombre nuevo), 550m 7b+, Picu Urriello (Naranjo de Bulnes), Picos de Europa (with Mário Inocêncio/João Saraiva, 11-VIII-2021)

Shaktis Ausentes, 120m 7c+, Cântaro Magro, Serra da Estrela (with João Saraiva, 29-VI-2020)

Rostrum North Face, 250m 5.11c, Yosemite (with João Saraiva, 23-IX-2019)

Fuego de Poder, 150m 7b, Aguja el Piramidal, Frey (with Matí Korten, 9/II/2017)

Agricantus, 200m 8a, Anica Kuk, Paklenica (with Marin Marasovic, X-2012)

Perfect Monsters (First Free Ascent), 130m E7 6b, Mingulay, Outer Hebrides (with Nils Guillotine, VI-2008)

“Finally, almost ten years on from the first ascent, Carlos Simes and Nils Guillotine made the long awaited second ascent of Perfect Monsters on Dun Mingulay, dispensing with the hanging belay and rest point (FFA)” - from Scottish Rock vol.2 North

Some hard Repetitions Without Full Send (e.g.):

L’Axe du Mal, 550m 7c+ (7a+ obl.), Tadarate (2800m), Taghia (with Roger Corull/Adriá Solera, 20-IV-2023)

Delta Minox, 460m 7b+ (7a+/A1), Cima scingino (2502m), Val Masino (with Stefano Dotti, 5-VI-2012)

“One of the most coveted climbs in the Central Alps, it represented a huge leap in terms of quality in Val Masino and even today is often considered one of the most difficult slab climbs in the Alps. A series of perfect slabs, past various 'adventurous' sections, at times somewhat worrying to the runout in-situ pro. Repeated rarely, this route requires respect as often the obligatory climbing is not close to bolt!” - from Planet Mountain

El Pilar del Cantábrico, 500m 8a+ (A2+/6b+), Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes), Picos de Europa (with Francisco Ataíde, 27-VIII-2010)

Rope Solo Climbing Onsights Up to 7b+ (e.g.):

Sedmi Kontinent, 220m 7b+, Paklenica (X-2012)

Albert-Cervera, 180m 7a+, Sant Benet, Montserrat (X-2009)

Bouldering Up to Font 7c Flash (e.g. Atila 7c, Hoya Moros); Font 7c+ Redpointed (e.g. Griplless CS, Sintra)

Deep Water Soloing Up to 7b+ Onsight (e.g. Super Bock, Ingrina, Sagres); 8a Redpointed (e.g. Mito do Inferno, Boca do Inferno, Cascais, IX-2005; Bandito, Cala Barques, Mallorca, VII-2009).

Aid Climbing Up to A3 Rope Solo (e.g. first and second pitches of Cuba Livre, Espinhaço, Cabo da Roca)

Opened and Established Climbs: Aprox. 60 bolted sport climbs and 20 traditional routes at Portuguese crags; some others abroad (e.g. Massimo Duty, 7c trad, Val del Orco, IX-2012).

Author of: Portugal Rock Climbs at the Western Tip of Europe, Versant Sud.

Sponsored (2011-2016): WildCountry and Karrimor (UK), RedChili (Germany)

Featured & Written Articles / International magazines and Publications:

Desnivel # 429 (Escalada en Portugal), Abril 2023

Climax Magazine # 40 (Sintra, Portugal), December 2022

Climb magazine (The Mountains of the Stars), issue 138, May/Jun 2017

Greece Climbing Guidebook, 2017

Scottish Rock and Bouldering in Scotland guidebooks

Climbing magazine (Beyond the butt shot) # 326, 2014

Klettern magazine (Sintra) December 2012/January 2013

Escalade Mag (Séjour à Lisbonne) Hors Sèrie 2013

Pareti (La Sintra Portugal Bloc), #92 May 2013

BloK (Portugal), 18+19 Zomer 2013

Club Alpino Italiano (Orco Trad Meet 2012, Una Settimana di grande Scalata), Annuario 2012-13

Climb magazine (Costa do Tesouro), #94 December 2012

Campo Base magazine (Un Milagro en Sintra), Agosto 2009; (Casal Pianos, Fisuras de Verdad), Noviembre 2011

Red Bulletim (RedBull Psicobloc Sesimbra, Ups & Down), September 2011

Vertigem magazine (Naranjo de Bulnes revisitado), Agosto 2010

Montanha (Farol da Guia) Ano I, Nº2 2001