Visiting Madagascar was one of my climbing dreams of youth. Ever since I read Desnivel's article (1/2000) of Francisco Blanco and Toti Vales opening Mora Mora at the Tsaranoro Massif, the sheer nature of its faces, direct lines on perfect yellow granite; the surrounding highlands landscape and culture, were some of the elements that fascinated me prior to this trip. This summer, I was lucky enough to bring this project to fruition, fitting it as a break between the guiding season. The usual expedition friends, plus my family, were the ideal travel companions and all the above-mentioned expectations were surpassed.
The team was motivated, the weather was great, the hosting and living at Tsarasoa campground (to which the presence of my daughter and partner joyful interactions with the local villagers also contributed a lot) a mellow alternation from the vertical frenzy.
With set objectives and such mood we were able to climb the following routes: Air Society, 245m 6b+ (6b obl.); Le Crabe Aux Pince D'or, 350m 7b+ (6c+ obl.); Línea Blanca, 350m 7a (6c obl.); Scolothomb, 290m 7a (6c obl.); Rain Boto, 450m 7b+ (7a obl.); Out of Africa, 650m 7a (6c obl.); Soava Via, 700m 7c+ (7a obl.); Cuento de Habas, 750m 7c (7a obl.) in a day attempt; Tsaradonga, 270m 7a (6b obl.) and Mai Píu Cosí, 700m 8a (7b obl.).
In a way, it felt like the time had come; most of the experiences up to this point had been preparation, not only in the climbing realm but also travelling wise. The gesture that takes time to honour in order to overcome complex granite moves, the on-sighting skills to navigate through runouts, the big wall maneuvers and fitness necessary to do multi-day activity; the capacity to learn the economic and societal contrasts that define the African reality as well as to observe the singular ecology of the island, were all personally put to the test.
