Spain

A Fast Mission

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At the beginning of August, together with João Saraiva and Mário Inocêncio, we headed one week to Picos da Europa to climb some old and modern classic long routes.

We started warming up and waiting for the weather to settle on the south face of the range at Hoces de Vegacervera. The following day we drove and approached Vega Huerta hiking from Caldevilla de Valdéon in between mists, cow bells and into the early evening darkness, bivouacking in a cave facing Peña Santa. We climbed the obligatory Resgate Emocional, negotiating the wall complex way down with a few references in mind from a previous activity and descending back to the car on the journey. A rest day spent travelling across the gorges to the north side was the perfect excuse to refuel with filling Asturian food and cider, as well as strolling the streets of Cangas de Onís old town amidst lively summer movement. The night was spent in a random football pitch on the way to Arenas de Cabrales.

Afterwards came the usual routine of sharing loads, walking to and pitching tent at Vega de Urriellu. The next morning Naranjo de Bulnes’ wake up call came in the form of a bouldery first pitch. It took me a couple of goes to send it, before continuing onsighting the remnant twelve rope lengths of the excellent Gizon Berri Bat Naiz (Soy un Hombre Nuevo). We took it easy on the subsequent dawn-to-dark, hydrating, chatting to recently meet climbers, searching for fresh shades around camp and solar showering with a view.

During the last 24 hours of this trip, I enjoyed doing the Rabadá-Navarro, seven hundred and fifty meters of Urriellu’s West face line of weakness, with Joãozinho. Five hours of fun climbing, before packing everything and walking down the valley, clearing straight into the car and Portugal through a late-night of driving that ended it all, as if we were a police patrol.

From the Well to the Sky

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18 hours and 4200m of unevenness, to climb Torre Cerredo's west face Nómadas en Tierra de Nadie, in-a-day.

The idea was to meet in Picos da Europa and have some fun. Not surprisingly, “Samu” Ortega, came up with the plan to get on the above-mentioned climb, which he, Eduardo de Deus and Rubén de Francisco had opened the previous summer. No one had tried it yet, so repeating sending the pitches was the prime task at hand but, a further twist needed to be added... Considering the wall’s remote location and in order to avoid a two-day outing and consequent logistics, as well as willingness to approach via the “famous” Canal de Dobresengos*, the in-a-day activity was born.

We started walking from Caín - pretty much the lowest altitude (460m) at Picos de Europa – at five in the morning, getting to the bottom of the wall (2250m) 4h40m later; climbed 400m in nine rope lengths of high quality grey limestone – rigorously opened with very technical, obligatory free climbing up to 7a+ difficulties - ; topped at the roof of the range (2648m) on a good timing, all in all this was only act 2/4; down-climbed from the summit towards the Bermeja gap and scree slopes back to Hoyo Grande (3/4); recomposed with a bocadillo and, made up our minds – personally I picked some tunes - to re-immerse our bodies and attention on the remaining steep 1500m downwards.

We arrived at eleven in the evening to Caín with weakened legs, sore feet, frantic laughs; the same quietness and faded yellow street lights that defined the small village, clustered deep there in the limestone karst: 4/4.

* “Access Caín - Dobresengos - Hoyo Grande: Avoid if you do with a heavy backpack, at midday and without water, there's 1500m of vertical gain in one of the most impressive couloirs of the massif. If you like Picos, you'll end up doing it at least one time in your life. Consider 5h”. BENGOCHEA, Angel ; RODRIGUEZ, Miguel – Sector N.5: Cerredo. In Escalada en Roca en Los Picos de Europa: 2009. p. 206

+ topo info

Ordesa / Peña Montañesa / Picos d’Europa

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Mid June and the first part of the working season is done. Roughly two months of logistics and cycling with guests, with only a few days cragging and bouldering jammed in between tours and free afternoons. Body and mind were already missing multi-day vertical activity and the scents of mountain living. Luckily, excitement was seedling with a plan for the summer with a great partner.

We left Costa Brava with a farewell to the then starting high temperatures and the upcoming busy touristic months but, with happy sights on its calm Mediterranean and quaint countryside charms to continue in September/October’s guiding.

First stop, Ordesa/Monte Perdido – A lot of expectations to climb the valley walls and meet with “Samu”el Ortega again. Years have passed since we last climbed together in the Alps and there we were catching up, start strengthening arms and legs, tune ourselves for the multitude of plans discussed over messages and now waiting ahead. Four days, three routes on different walls (Tozal del Mallo, Libro Abierto and Gallinero) with their beautiful Ordesa approaches and top-outs. Volume to put things running. JENGA AÍ (as for the Jenga game character of the climbing there)!

Second stop, Peña Montañesa – Another place I had been curious about. Four more days, two wall routes and some overhanging climbing at Bielsa. Really appreciated the rock and lines character on both the terrain d’aventure and the sport sector. Campsite with the van by the river. Samu leaves for home and the fireman’s action; we’re aiming for some more. Road to the West.

Third stop, Picos de Europa – Desfiladero de La Hermida and its sport sectors. Alternative summer environment, only warming whenever squeezing tufas for some steep sends and, late in the day, when jumping in the hot natural spring waters for relaxation. Rest days surfing and discovering the Cantabrian/Asturian coast, sampling green Spain’s best (Gamoneu smoked cheese) and some Celtic culture reminiscents (A.K.A. Cider). Vincent (Hélène’s brother) visiting, autonomy backpacks for a three day and one climb traverse in the heart of the range. The return of the Tortillero de Mocejón and off we go to Posada de Valdéon with two routes selected from the Txolos guidebook. One, Tiro Pedabejo, a random spot, great piece of rock; two, more packing, this time for an outing at the more remote Peña Santa. All smooth with the preparation climbs – accomplished with fun and amidst great backdrops. Enthusiasm to get back to Picos for a fourth visit.

Last days of July. Slow, three days countercurrent driving (as most vehicles on the busy motorway were southbound) and recovering period along the Cantabrian sea, the Pyrennees; towards the Provence Alps for the French acclimatization.